Traditional Imitation Jewellery: Temple, Kundan & Polki Explained
From Devasena's temple gold to Jodhaa's royal Kundan — the history, the differences, and how to style India's most beloved heritage jewellery for every occasion.
Traditional imitation jewellery has a cinematic charm that's hard to ignore. Who could forget Devasena's majestic temple jewellery in Baahubali, or Jodhaa Bai's elaborate Kundan sets in Jodhaa Akbar? These aren't just costumes — they symbolise the emotion, heritage and storytelling woven into traditional jewellery, passed down through every bride, every dancer, and every little girl playing dress-up. Today, that same grandeur is accessible to everyone through beautifully crafted imitation pieces.
This guide is the complete resource on the subject: what traditional imitation jewellery actually is, the history and meaning behind temple and Kundan craft, how temple, Kundan and Polki differ, and exactly how to style each with sarees, lehengas and Indo-western wear for every function — plus how to judge quality and care for your pieces so they last for years.
Whether you're a bride building a trousseau, a festival shopper refreshing your ethnic wardrobe, a classical dancer sourcing performance pieces, or simply someone who loves heritage design, understanding these styles turns shopping from guesswork into confident choice. By the end you'll know not just what looks beautiful, but why it carries the meaning it does — and how to wear it in a way that feels both traditional and unmistakably you.
Traditional imitation jewellery recreates classic Indian styles — temple, Kundan, Polki and Meenakari — using affordable, skin-safe materials like gold-plated alloys and 925 silver instead of solid gold and precious stones. It captures the heritage aesthetic and artisanal craftsmanship at a fraction of the cost and weight, making royal looks accessible for weddings, festivals, dance and everyday ethnic wear.
Defining the Styles: Temple & Kundan Basics
Temple jewellery is known for glittering, spiritual designs — gods, goddesses, elephants and lotuses rendered in gold or gold-plated silver. The story began in South India, where the deities of the towering stone temples of Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh were adorned with gorgeous gold ornaments. Each piece told a story: Goddess Lakshmi seated on a lotus for prosperity, tiny elephants for strength, and bells that echoed with every sacred step.
Kundan, by contrast, speaks of the royal sophistication of the Rajput and Mughal empires. It offers a light, refined look where the front glitters with red rubies, green emeralds and sapphires, while the back is finished with intricate Meenakari enamel. Where temple jewellery is devotional and sculptural, Kundan is regal and jewel-encrusted.
Origins & History: South India vs North India
During the rule of the Chola and Pandya dynasties, temple jewellery was made not for mortals but for gods and goddesses. This sacred art did not stay hidden behind temple walls for long — dancers practising Bharatanatyam and Kuchipudi began to wear the same ornaments, carrying the tradition into performance and, eventually, into bridal wear.
Kundan's story runs just as deep. Though many associate it with the Mughal courts, its roots stretch back to the 5,000-year-old Indus Valley Civilisation. From the coasts of Gujarat to the deserts of Rajasthan, artisans perfected the craft over centuries. Over time, as imitation techniques developed, Kundan became widely accessible — the very sets once locked in a mother's bank vault for a daughter's wedding can now be recreated affordably and worn freely.
What's striking is how these two traditions grew from entirely different impulses. Temple jewellery was born of devotion — adornment as an offering to the divine, later carried into sacred dance and finally into bridal wear as a way of blessing the wearer. Kundan grew from courtly power — jewellery as a display of royal wealth and artistry, commissioned by emperors and nobility. One is spiritual and sculptural; the other is regal and jewel-encrusted. Understanding those origins is the key to wearing each with intention rather than just as decoration.
Temple vs Kundan: The Comparison
| Feature | Temple | Kundan |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | South India (Chola, Pandya) | North India (Rajput, Mughal) |
| Motifs | Gods, lotus, elephant, peacock | Floral, geometric, stone-set |
| Look | Sculptural gold, divine | Jewel-encrusted, regal |
| Pairs with | Silk & Kanjivaram sarees | Lehengas, Anarkalis, gowns |
| Best occasions | Temple, dance, festivals, weddings | Weddings, receptions, galas |
Temple vs Kundan vs Polki
A third name often enters the conversation: Polki. Here's how all three relate. Temple is defined by its divine motifs and gold finish. Kundan is a setting technique using polished glass or gemstones held in refined gold foil. Polki uses raw, uncut, unpolished diamonds set with that same Kundan technique — giving a more rustic, antique sparkle. Both Kundan and Polki fall under the umbrella craft of Jadau, the art of embedding stones into metal. Many bridal sets blend all three traditions for depth and contrast.
A simple way to remember the difference: temple is about what is depicted (the deities and motifs), while Kundan and Polki are about how the stones are set. That's why you can find a temple-style pendant made with Kundan-set stones, or a Polki choker finished with temple-inspired detailing — the categories describe different aspects of a piece and often overlap in a single design.
Design & Craftsmanship
Each style has its own language of beauty. Temple jewellery draws on gods, temple architecture and symbolic motifs — leaves, coins, bells. Artisans cast, cut and shape gold (or gold-plated alloy in imitation) into these sculptural forms. Kundan follows a meticulous multi-stage process: the gadhai framework of metal strips, the khudai engraving, and finally the jadai, where stones are set and sealed with gold foil — no heat or solder required. Premium imitation brands replicate this exact craftsmanship, which is why a well-made piece can look indistinguishable from solid gold.
Meenakari deserves special mention. This art of firing coloured glass enamel onto metal originated in Persia and was refined in the Rajput and Mughal ateliers, and it transforms the reverse of a Kundan piece into a work of art in its own right. In the finest jewellery the back is as beautiful as the front — a detail that separates true craftsmanship from mass production. When you turn over a quality imitation Kundan set and find smooth, vibrant enamel rather than bare metal, you are looking at the same standard that once dressed royalty.
Temple craftsmanship carries its own signatures: repoussé work that raises motifs from the metal, granulation that adds texture, and the use of red and green stones (or their imitation equivalents) to frame the central deity. The heavier, three-dimensional feel of temple pieces is deliberate — it echoes the monumental stone sculpture of the temples that inspired them. Recognising these hallmarks helps you appreciate why a genuine temple design feels so different in the hand from a flat, stamped copy.
Regional Jewellery Traditions
India's jewellery map is astonishingly varied, and knowing the regional signatures helps you choose pieces with authenticity and meaning. Beyond the broad South-versus-North divide, each region contributes its own iconic forms.
Imitation jewellery has made all of these regional treasures accessible far beyond their home states — a Delhi bride can wear an authentic-looking South Indian temple haram, and a Chennai bride can add a Rajasthani Kundan matha patti, without either committing to solid gold. That cross-pollination is one of the most joyful developments in modern Indian fashion.
Why Imitation Makes Sense Today
With solid-gold prices at record highs, the old model — one heavy gold set, worn a handful of times and stored in a locker — no longer fits how people live or celebrate. Premium imitation jewellery answers this directly. It lets a bride commission a different look for every function without a lakh-rupee outlay, and because it is dramatically lighter than solid gold, she can actually enjoy hours of rituals, dancing and photography without neck strain or torn earlobes.
There is a wardrobe argument beyond weddings, too. A festive temple haar or a Kundan choker can be re-worn across Diwali, Navratri, family functions and even styled with fusion outfits — something few would risk with an irreplaceable gold heirloom. It's the same logic driving the popularity of one-gram-gold bridal jewellery: heritage beauty, modern practicality.
Styling by Outfit
Whatever the outfit, match the neckpiece to your neckline — our guide to the right necklace for a lehenga covers the details. As a rule of thumb, let the more ornate element — whether it's the outfit's embroidery or the jewellery — lead, and keep the other supporting. A heavily embellished blouse pairs best with a simpler neckpiece and statement earrings, while a plain silk drape can carry a grand temple haram as its hero.
Styling by Occasion
| Occasion | Best choice |
|---|---|
| Festivals | Temple jhumkas and a haar for Diwali, Navratri and Pongal. |
| Wedding | Layered Kundan or Polki bridal sets with matha patti and nath. |
| Classical dance | Full temple sets — Lakshmi haram, jhumkas, oddiyanam. |
| Reception | Sleek Kundan or AD stone sets with a gown. |
For festive dressing specifically, our festive jewellery guide pairs well with this matrix.
Modern Fusion Trends
Today's most exciting pieces blend the soulful artistry of temple work with the regal finesse of Kundan — a convergence of South and North. Rather than debating one against the other, brides now mix freely: a Tamil bride might choose a Kundan matha patti to complement her silk saree, while a Punjabi bride adds a temple-style haar to her bridal look. Lightweight construction, antique gold finishes and Polki-inspired stones define the fusion direction, making heritage feel fresh and wearable for a new generation.
Celebrity weddings have accelerated this crossover. When a high-profile bride pairs a South Indian temple choker with a North Indian lehenga, or layers Polki over a contemporary gown, it gives everyone permission to treat these traditions as a shared palette rather than fixed rules. The most modern approach is to honour the craft while wearing it your own way — mixing regions, eras and even a touch of western minimalism until the look feels authentically yours.
Buying Guide: How to Judge Quality
For the full framework, see how to spot good quality artificial jewellery.
Care & Storage
Common Buying Mistakes to Avoid
Final Styling Recommendations
At its heart, traditional imitation jewellery is deeply personal, but a few guiding questions make the choice easier. What's the outfit — a silk saree calls for soulful temple designs, while a velvet lehenga invites regal Kundan sparkle? What's the occasion — temple jewellery suits devotional and cultural events, while Kundan and Polki shine at weddings and receptions? And above all, what feels most like you? Trend should always come second to instinct.
Whether you're drawn to the sacred allure of temple jewellery or the royal charm of Kundan, the beauty of modern imitation craft is that you no longer have to choose only one, or spend a fortune to own both. Build a small, well-made collection that spans both traditions, care for it properly, and you'll have heritage-inspired pieces ready for every celebration life brings — for years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions
From soulful temple designs to regal Kundan, explore lightweight, skin-safe heritage jewellery that fuses South and North Indian artistry beautifully.
SHOP TRADITIONAL SETS